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January 17, 2010

How to Buy a Camera Flash ? 7 simple advices

Filed under: Flashes — Tags: — admin @ 1:53 am

Why do you need to buy cameras flash ? Some cameras are sold without a flash unit, but including one in your collection of camera equipment will provide you with the capability to take photos indoors and soften photos taken outdoors. Automatic flashes are generally best. Most have three or four different automatic ranges allowing different f-stops and working distances. They can also be used in manual mode for certain effects.

Step 1
Bring your camera to the store to ensure that the flash unit you consider is compatible with it.

Step 2
Ask to see flash units that are compatible with your camera brand and model.

Step 3
Make certain that if you want an autofocus flash unit, you are checking out flash units that are, in fact, autofocus. Non-autofocus flashes fit on most autofocus cameras, but they are actually designed for manual focus cameras. Look for the flash’s autofocus aid light to confirm that it is an autofocus flash. If it doesn’t have the light, it probably is not autofocus.

Step 4
Seek out a flash unit with the following features: autoexposure, flash-ready light, bounce capability, thyristor control, exposure confirmation and auto-setting of the shutter speed. Make certain that the flash slides on and off your camera’s hot shoe easily.

Step 5
Avoid locking mechanisms that are clumsy to use or stiff electrical contacts that inhibit your ability to take the unit on or off the shoe.

Step 6
Load batteries into the flash unit you are evaluating. With the batteries, the unit should be light and balanced so the camera does not topple forward when hanging from a neck strap.

Step 7
Confirm that the flash has an output that covers the widest lens you will be using. If you are using a lens that extends out as wide as 18mm or 24mm, then you should also purchase a plastic spreader lens or a diffuser for the flash.

Sourced from: http://www.ehow.com/how_5821_buy-camera-flash.html

How to Buy a Camera Tripod ?

Filed under: Tripods — Tags: — admin @ 1:46 am

How to buy a tripod ? Why do you need it? For landscape photographs no accessory is more important than a tripod, here is a guide for making a good choice.

A tripod is another piece of equipment to carry; is it really worth taking on long hikes to photograph the landscape? It might not be essential every time, but it will almost always help and there are many situations where you cannot expect acceptable results from hand-held shots.

Why Use a Tripod?
Holding a camera rock-solid steady, essential for good photography of any kind, can be difficult outdoors in the wind and on uneven surfaces. Many of the best landscape pictures are taken soon after dawn or in the evening, when the light can require slow shutter speeds. And long exposures can be used creatively with moving water and wind-blown grasses or leaves.

So the main reason for using a tripod is to have complete flexibility in choosing lenses and shutter speeds without having to worry about camera movement and shake.

Tripods also help in composing pictures accurately, particularly to get level horizons. And high dynamic range techniques require precisely the same composition taken with, usually, three different levels of exposure, which is only possible with a good tripod.

Tripod Features to Consider
Tripod prices very widely, from £25 / $50 to £300 / $600, so what would be a sensible choice? Weight, collapsed size, stability and build quality are basic considerations, here are some less obvious features that can greatly affect a tripod’s practical value:

- Both the tripod and head should be rated as strong and steady enough to hold your present camera and lens, with a margin for what you might buy in future.
- Ball heads usually have both a smoother and a more flexible movement than pan-and-tilt heads, making it easier to compose shots accurately.
- A three-way spirit level will help with keeping horizons level.
- A quick release lever for the camera is useful for setting up and moving around the site.
- The legs should be manoeuvrable independently and the tripod should be tall enough to set up and use on tricky, steeply sloping sites.
- A removable central column that can be set horizontally, or upside down, is a great help for close-up or macro shots of the inner or micro landscape.
- A hook to hang a camera bag, usually at the bottom of the central column, will add stability.

Tripod Manufacturers
Benbo, Giotto, Gitzo and Manfrotto are all excellent manufacturers, though others also produce good models. The tripod is such a central piece of equipment that it is wise to take a close, hands-on look before buying, so a trip to a camera shop will be a better bet than an on-line purchase.

So what is a tripod likely to cost? Don’t expect much for £25 / $50; at that price you will probably soon want something better. For a good one, including the head, expect to pay at least £100 / $200, perhaps double that for a tripod that will last for many years of use and camera upgrades, and more to combine all the best features with light weight.

While you are at it, get a remote shutter release. It is another way to keep things rock steady when you take those long exposures.

Sourced from: http://landscape-photography.suite101.com/article.cfm/how_to_buy_a_tripod

How To Buy A Film Camera ?

Filed under: Cameras, Film Cameras — Tags: — admin @ 1:37 am

We would like to share with you, newbie and experience film camera shoppers the bellowing “Buy Film Camera” advices from eHow. We do hope that It will help you to select the right film camera for you.
Understanding the attributes of each kind of film will enable you to achieve the right balance of tone, color, shadow and highlights in your prints.

1 – Consider the lighting conditions in which you will be shooting.
2 – Decide whether you want to shoot in black and white or color.
3 – Choose a brand of film.
4 – Select slow (25-64 ISO), medium (100-200 ISO), fast (400-1000 ISO) or ultrafast (1600-3200 ISO) film based on the lighting.
5 – Use slow film in bright sunlight or a well-lit studio.
6 – Use medium film in most typical daylight and indoor lighting situations.
7 – Use fast film in a range of lighting situations from low light to bright light and to capture action.
8 – Use ultrafast film in shadowy areas during the day, at night and in dark interiors.

Tips & Warnings

- Medium-speed films provide the greatest latitude with minimal graininess. They also deliver less contrast than slow films.
- Slow films are typically used for still life, landscapes and big enlargements with fine detail. Moving objects will often appear blurred when using slow film.
- Fast films produce grainy prints.
- Use 200- or 400-speed films for the greatest flexibility.
- Keep your film in a cool dry place, like a camera bag, to prevent damage and distortion.

Sourced from: http://www.ehow.com/how_296_choose-camera-film.html

January 16, 2010

How To Buy A Digital Camcorder ? 5 Simple Steps

Filed under: Camcorders — Tags: — admin @ 4:53 am

Bellowing is the article about “How To Buy a Digital Camcorder ?” from PC Word. We think that it is very useful for both newbie and experience camcorder shoppers so we would like to share it here. Digital camcorders make shooting video and editing it on your home computer a breeze; here’s an overview to the different formats and a guide to what’s best for you.

1 – Which Format Is Right For You?
Tapes used to be the only game in town, but no longer. If you can’t quite decide whether your camcorder purchase should be based on tape, mini-DVD, hard drive, flash storage, or SD/SDHC card, be sure to consider the following pros and cons of each camcorder type.

MiniDV tape camcorders: Tapes may be old-school, but they do offer a range of benefits. They’re easy to archive, as long as you have the shelf space. Tape-based camcorders are usually cheaper than Mini-DVD or storage-based models, as well. Outputting your footage to a computer for editing is also easier, as DV and HDV footage works with any modern editing program–and on slower PCs. For the time being, tape offers better video quality than any other camcorder type. That may change very soon, though; newer storage-based camcorders record high-definition video at a bit rate of 24mbps, which translates into more recorded data per frame of video and sharper footage. The main drawbacks include the cost of repeatedly buying tapes; the fact that footage is recorded linearly and can’t be accessed at random, as it can be on DVD and storage-based camcorders; the bulkier size of tapes; and the fact that tapes degrade over time.

Mini-DVD camcorders: DVD camcorders are typically a little larger than MiniDV camcorders and significantly larger than storage-based camcorders. Several video editing applications will now let you import or edit video recorded with a DVD camcorder. The advantage, of course, is that you can pop the disc out of the camcorder and into a DVD set-top player—but bear in mind that if you have a slot-loading optical drive on your laptop, these smaller discs might not fit. Mini-DVD discs are usually harder to find than MiniDV tapes, as well as a bit more expensive. You also won’t get the same video quality as you get with most MiniDV- or storage-based camcorders.

Hard-drive and flash-drive camcorders: Tapeless (and DVD-less) camcorders are the wave of the future, as more and more major vendors are switching to hard-drive- and flash-storage-based models. The main benefit here is not having to repeatedly buy tapes or DVDs as storage media, although you’ll need plenty of PC storage space to offload your footage from the camcorder. Storage-based camcorders are also handy when it comes to accessing (or deleting) clips at random. Hard-drive-based models offer more storage capacity, but are also more susceptible to long-term wear and tear than flash-storage-based models due to the drive’s moving parts. Another consideration: It’s sometimes more convenient to have a tangible medium such as tapes or DVDs if you plan on archiving your footage.

SD and SDHC card camcorders: With removable flash storage beefing up to astronomical gigabyte levels, many major vendors are also switching to SD- and SDHC-card based camcorders, as well as offering SD/SDHC card slots as a secondary form of storage for hard-drive, flash-drive, tape-based, and DVD-based camcorders. This is a useful option if you already have a high-capacity SD card or a computer with a card slot or card reader: You can just pop the card out of your camcorder and transfer footage without hooking up the camera itself. What’s more, many new HDTVs, digital photo frames, and home-entertainment components have SD/SDHC card slots built in, so you can watch your footage without connecting your camcorder via cables. Not all SD-compatible devices are also compatible with SDHC cards, however, so make sure that any devices you plan to use an SDHC card with are specified as SDHC-compatible. You’ll also want a Class 4 or Class 6 SD card, which have faster data-write speeds than Class 2 cards.

2 – High Definition or Standard Definition?
Most camcorder manufacturers now offer models that record in high definition; however, while these models capture gorgeous footage, using high-def comes with serious limitations. The camcorders themselves are significantly more expensive than standard-resolution camcorders, and not all video editing software will let you edit HD footage.

There’s also the codec issue to think about: Many storage-based HD camcorders use AVCHD (Advanced Video Codec High Definition) compression, which isn’t compatible with all video editing programs. AVCHD requires higher-end editing suites, such as Pinnacle Studio Plus 12 or Adobe Premiere Elements 7. What’s more, you’ll need a more-powerful computer (ideally, a 2.66-GHz Intel Core 2 Quad Core CPU at the bare minimum) to handle the editing process.

High-definition miniDV camcorders normally use the HDV format, which works with more video editing suites (including Windows Movie Maker HD and Apple iMovie). HDV also requires a powerful computer to decode files, but less so than AVCHD: A 2-GHz Intel Pentium CPU and 2GB of RAM should do the trick. Even a powerful computer, however, will take much more time–hours, not minutes–to render HDV or AVCHD files than standard-definition, DV-format files.

Also, even if your editing application does handle HD, you may not be able to output your movies to an easily viewable high-definition format–often, these editing apps let you burn only a standard-definition disc.

3 – Key Features
Screen: Having a large LCD screen built into the camcorder lets you more easily see what you’re recording and facilitates playback previews. Be careful when considering a camcorder’s screen, though–some don’t work well in bright sunlight, an environment in which you’ll often use the device. Most camcorders come with both an LCD screen and a viewfinder, giving you the option to use either. The viewfinder can be useful if you can’t see the screen in bright light; it also uses less power than the screen, extending the camcorder battery’s life. Also, if you are considering purchasing a camcorder that can shoot in wide-screen (720-by-480-pixel) format, look for a camcorder with a wide-screen LCD, so it won’t crop your view of the video you’re shooting.

Lens: Every camcorder comes with a zoom lens that lets you get closer to your subject. Camcorder manufacturers don’t always distinguish clearly between digital and optical zoom. The spec for maximum optical zoom is the more interesting figure: It denotes the maximum zoom that the camcorder can achieve by moving its lens elements. Most modern camcorders have at least a 10X optical zoom, which should be more than adequate for general purposes. A digital zoom, on the other hand, magnifies after the optical zoom is fully extended, and the camcorder then enlarges part of the image to fill the screen. This method leads to grainy, pixelated, and generally unpleasant-looking images. At higher digital zoom settings, the quality is so poor that you often can’t see what you are taping.

Image stabilization: All camcorders offer one of two types of image stabilization–optical or electronic–to reduce jittery video caused by shaky hands. With optical stabilization, the camcorder’s lens mechanism moves to compensate for external movement. With electronic image stabilization, the image captured by the lens “floats” on the CCD, and the camcorder uses internal circuitry after the image has been captured to interpret the video. Optical stabilization usually provides the best results; in the past it was typically found in more expensive camcorders, but these days some moderately priced models have it too.

Batteries: The amount of recording and playback time you get out of a battery varies, but most camcorders should be able to record for at least an hour with the included battery. Additional higher-capacity batteries typically cost from $50 to $100.

Microphones: Sound is almost as important to a video as the images. We’ve found that camcorders with microphones mounted in the front tend to produce better sound than those with microphones on the top of the unit; top-mounted microphones often pick up the voice of the person operating the camera, drowning out everything else. Some camcorders offer zoom microphones that emphasize the subject’s voice when the zoom lens is used, and some also come with a socket for plugging in an external microphone. Either type of microphone can be very useful when you’re recording presentations or speeches.

Still photography: Many digital camcorders can serve as digital cameras, saving still images to a memory card or to tape. Some can save images at the same resolution as a 5-megapixel camera (but watch out for models that produce interpolated high-resolution images from lower-resolution CCDs). However, none of the camcorders we’ve tested has performed as well at taking still pictures as a dedicated still camera–they don’t provide the same level of control or the same image quality.

Controls: We have found that smaller camcorders can be a little more difficult to use because their controls don’t naturally sit where your fingers fall, particularly if you have large hands. Of course, heavy, bulky models can bcome tiring to carry, so strive for a balance.

Low-light modes: Many camcorders have the ability to film in very low light, whether with the help of an infrared light (which you can’t see, but the camcorder can), a special slow-shutter mode that makes the most of ambient lighting, or built-in illumination from one or more LEDs. Some models offer all three methods. These modes can be very useful in poorly illuminated settings, but video captured with these tools enabled won’t be as good as video captured in well-lit settings. For example, slow-shutter modes may cause moving subjects to smear or ghost.

Format: Most camcorders use the MiniDV and DVD formats, but models that capture high-definition footage to onboard hard drives and flash drives usually employ the AVCHD (Advanced Video Codec High Definition) format. AVCHD hasn’t lived up to its full potential yet, as many video editing programs can’t handle that format. What’s more, you’ll need a more powerful computer to edit your footage. MiniDV models still capture the best-quality video, but maybe not for much longer: newer AVCHD camcorders can record high-definition video at a bit rate of 24mbps, which translates into more recorded data per frame of video and sharper footage.

Wide-screen shooting: Several camcorders now allow you to shoot in the 16:9 aspect ratio used by HDTVs, even if the camcorders still shoot in standard-definition resolution. Note that some camcorders use a CCD with a native 16:9 orientation, so you get the full resolution of the CCD when you shoot in wide-screen format, whereas others use a CCD with a traditional 4:3 orientation and thus use only a portion of that CCD when doing wide-screen shooting.

4 – The Specs Explained
While a digital camcorder’s specifications don’t tell the whole story, they can help you narrow your choices. You can use the camcorder’s price, along with specs like LCD screen size, weight, and type of microphone, to weed out the ones that won’t work for you.

Keep in mind that while a big LCD screen and lots of extra features justify a higher price, ease of use and overall size are also important considerations. Even the lightest camcorder won’t do you much good if the controls are too small for your hands; always try the camcorder out before you buy. Remember that the lightest cameras may sacrifice other features, and will often have a top-mounted microphone simply because there’s nowhere else to put it. But weight may be an important enough consideration to justify these trade-offs.

Digital and optical zoom specs don’t tend to vary much across categories, and thus aren’t represented here. Most modern camcorders come with at least a 10X optical zoom. Don’t pay too much attention to the digital zoom, which simply enlarges the image the lens captures. The optical zoom is far more important. In the semi-pro range, you can expect to get a lens with higher-quality optics.

Important: Weight
A camcorder’s weight is a key factor in how easy it is to use; it affects whether you decide to carry it along on your outings. Weight is also one of the most important issues affecting camcorder price: Tiny camcorders often mean higher cost, at least in consumer models. And often those tiny camcorders will have less-capable lenses, fewer features, and harder-to-use controls.

Important: Recording Media
DVD and hard-drive models are fast becoming the most commonly available types; MiniDV models are growing more scarce, even though at this writing they still capture the best video quality and allow the easiest editing. To help you pick which recording media type might be best for your needs, read our explanation of the pros and cons of each camcorder type.

Somewhat Important: Microphone Placement
Look for a front-mounted microphone, if possible. But if you have to settle for a top-mounted mic, look for one with an audio-zoom function. Also look for the ability to connect an external microphone, especially if you anticipate shooting stationary subjects.

Somewhat Important: Low-Light Modes
Special infrared or long shutter modes allow you to shoot in very little light. Higher-end models include battery-thrifty LED illumination built into the camera (but this method doesn’t work nearly as well as a dedicated, external video light).

Somewhat Important: Screen Size
A larger screen makes it easier to see what you’re recording and facilitates playback. But keep in mind that the screen size will take a toll on your camcorder’s battery life, especially if the camcorder uses that LCD as its only viewfinder. Simply put, a big, bright LCD will drain your camera’s battery more quickly. Although some models have whopping, 3-plus-inch screens, those big LCDs ultimately will make the camcorder larger, too). As for touch screens, that’s a personal call; many new camcorders offer access to menu items and playback controls via a touch-screen LCD, which may be good or bad depending on your preferences (and how clean your fingers are).

Minor: Ports
Most MiniDV camcorders have FireWire ports for transferring video to your computer; some models will also let you transfer video by using a USB 2.0 port (and if the camcorder captures still images, it will almost always let you transfer them via USB). Almost all models have S-Video-out and/or composite-out ports so you can view footage on a television, but some models also have S-Video-in and composite-in ports, which allow you to record from other sources such as older analog camcorders.

5 – Digital Camcorder Shopping Tips
Are you ready to buy a digital camcorder? PC World’s recommendations can help you find a camcorder that’s right for you.

Check out the LCD screen in daylight, if possible. Some screens will wash out in bright sunlight, and you’ll want to make sure you can easily see what you’re recording under any conditions. If you can’t see the screen in bright daylight, try using the viewfinder: It can help get the job done without eating up a lot of battery power.

Look at the lens’s optical zoom ratio instead of the digital zoom ratio. With a digital zoom, the camcorder is only enlarging the image in the viewfinder instead of really giving you a closer look. The optical zoom spec is more important–you’ll want at least 10X optical zoom.

For longer recording times, buy an extra, higher-capacity battery. The battery that comes with most camcorders often lasts only an hour or so. For $50 to $100, you can buy a longer-lasting battery, so factor that into your cost if you think you’ll need it. (Remember, however, that larger batteries add to the camera’s weight.)

Front-mounted microphones get better results. Top-mounted microphones tend to capture the voice of the person using the camera, drowning out everything else.

Buy an external microphone for the best sound. Factor in an extra $50 to $100 for an external microphone if you want the best sound possible. Make sure, of course, that your camcorder has a place for you to plug it in.

Try out the camera’s controls before you buy. Sometimes the smallest camcorders can be difficult to use, especially if you have large hands. A larger model may work better for you if it’s more comfortable to handle.

Check out exposure controls. All camcorders offer a fully automatic mode, but some models have manual and semimanual exposure modes. For example, some models let you shoot at slower shutter speeds than others, or have aperture settings that allow more light in. Many also offer scene modes, which you might be familiar with from digital still cameras.

Low-light options let you shoot in dim settings. Many cameras offer an infrared light or a long shutter mode to help you capture images in darkness.

Look for wide-screen shooting. If you own an HDTV, you’ll get a full picture (no black bars at the top and bottom) if you shoot with a wide-screen model.

Pick the right format. MiniDV camcorders are still the best bet in terms of software compatibility, and buying an HD camcorder may mean you’ll need to bulk up your computer and your video editing package as well. Don’t expect to edit footage captured with an AVCHD camcorder using most video editing programs. What’s more, you’ll have to use an editing program that supports the MPEG compression format for mini-DVDs, or first convert the video into a format that the program understands.

Sourced from: http://www.pcworld.com/article/125646-2/how_to_buy_a_digital_camcorder.html

How to Buy a Digital Camera ?

Filed under: Cameras, Digital Cameras — Tags: — admin @ 2:22 am

How to Buy a Digital Camera ? Darren Rowse, a pro-camera shopper shares his experience with 9 simple steps to sellect a good digital camera.

1. Determine what you need
A mistake I see some digital camera buyers making is that they get sucked into buying cameras that are beyond what they really need. Some questions to ask yourself before you go shopping:
What do you need the camera for?
What type of photography will you be doing? (portraits, landscapes, macro, sports)
What conditions will you be largely photographing in? (indoors, outdoors, low light, bright light)
Will you largely stay in auto mode or do you want to learn the art of photography?
What experience level do you have with cameras?
What type of features are you looking for? (long zoom, image stabilization, large LCD display etc)
How important is size and portability to you?
What is your budget?
Ask yourself these questions before you go to buy a camera and you’ll be in a much better position to make a decision when you see what’s on offer. You’ll probably find the sales person asks you this question anyway – so to have thought about it before hand will help them help you get the right digital camera.

2. Megapixels are NOT everything
One of the features that you’ll see used to sell digital cameras is how many megapixels a digital camera has.
When I first got into digital photography, a few years back, the megapixel rating of cameras was actually quite important as most cameras were at the lower end of today’s modern day range and even a 1 megapixel increase was significant.
These days, with most new cameras coming out with at least 5 megapixels, it isn’t so crucial. In fact at the upper end of the range it can actually be a disadvantage to have images that are so large that they take up enormous amounts of space on memory cards and computers.
One of the main questions to ask when it comes to megapixels is ‘Will you be printing shots’? If so – how large will you be going with them? If you’re only printing images at a normal size then anything over 4 or so megapixels will be fine. If you’re going to start blowing your images up you might want to pay the extra money for something at the upper end of what’s on offer today.
3. Keep in mind the ‘extras’
Photo by fensterbme
Keep in mind as you look at cameras that the price quoted may not be the final outlay that you need to make as there are a variety of other extras that you might want (or need) to fork out for including:
Camera Case
Memory Cards
Spare Batteries/Recharger
Lenses (if you are getting a DSLR)
Filters (and other lens attachments)
Tripods/Monopods
External Flashes
Reflectors
Some retailers will bundle such extras with cameras or will at least give a discount when buying more than one item at once. Keep in mind though that what they offer in bundles might not meet you needs. For example it’s common to get a 16 or 32 megabyte memory card with cameras – however these days you’ll probably want something at least of 500 megabytes (if not a gigabyte or two).
4. Do you already own any potentially compatible gear?
Talking of extra gear – one way to save yourself some cash is if you have accessories from previous digital cameras that are compatible with your new one.
For example memory cards, batteries, lenses (remember that many film camera lenses are actually compatible with digital SLRs from the same manufacturers), flashes, filters etc.
5. DSLR or Point and Shoot?
While digital SLRs are getting more affordable they are not for everyone. Keep in mind that they are usually bigger, heavier, harder to keep clean (if you’re changing lenses) and can be more complicated to operate than point and shoot. Of course there are some upsides also.
If you’re trying to make a decision between a point and shoot and DSLR you might want to read my previous posts titled Should you buy a DSLR or a Point and Shoot Digital Camera? and it’s companion piece How to Choose a DSLR.
6. Optical Zooms are King
Not all ‘zooms’ are created equal.
When you’re looking at different models of digital cameras you’ll often hear their zooms talked about in two ways. Firstly there’s the ‘optical zoom’ and then there’s the ‘digital zoom’.
I would highly recommend that you only take into consideration the ‘optical zoom’ when making a decision about which camera to buy. Digital zooms simply enlarge the pixels in your shot which does make your subject look bigger, but it also makes it look more pixelated and your picture ‘noisier’ (like when you go up close to your TV).
If you’re looking for a zoom lens make sure it’s an optical zoom (most modern cameras have them of at least 3x in length – ie they’ll make your subject three times as big – with an increasing array of ’super zooms’ coming onto the market at up to 12x Optical Zoom).
7. Read reviews
Before buying a digital camera take the time to do a little research. Don’t JUST rely upon the advice of the helpful sales person (who may or may not know anything about cameras and who may or may not have sales incentives for the camera they are recommending).
Read some reviews in digital camera magazines or online to help you narrow down the field. There are some great websites around that give expert and user reviews on virtually every camera on the market – use this wonderful and free resource.
A little self promotion here – one such site is my Digital Photography Blog which is a site that collates the reviews of many sites from around the web. To use it best enter the camera’s model name that you’re looking for a review on in the search feature in the top right side bar. It’ll give you a link to a central page that has information on the camera as well as links to any reviews published online on that camera from around the web.
8. Hands On Experience
Photo by erinmariepage
Once you’ve narrowed down your search to a handful of cameras head into your local digital camera shop and ask to see and play with them. There’s nothing like having the camera in your hands to work out whether it suits your needs.
When I shop for a camera I generally use the web to find reviews, then I head into a street in my city with 4 camera shops side by side and I go from shop to shop asking for recommendations and seeing the cameras live in the flash. In doing this I generally find the same camera or two are recommended in most shops and I get to see them demonstrated by different people (this gives a more well rounded demo). I also get to play with it and get a feel for which one I could see myself using.
9. Negotiate
After you’ve selected the right digital camera for you it’s time to find the best price.
Once again, I generally start online (on a site like our store) and do some searches to find the most competitive prices on the models I’m interested in. With these in hand I’m in a good position to be able to negotiate in person with local stores and/or with online stores. I generally find that retail stores will negotiate on price and will often throw in freebies. Online stores are more difficult – most bigger ones don’t give you the ability to negotiate but smaller ones often will if you email them.
Don’t forget to ask for free or discounted bonuses including camera cases, memory cards, extra batteries, filters, free prints, cases etc. I even know of a couple of stores that offer camera lessons that you can ask to be included. Some stores will also consider giving you a trade in on older gear.
I generally do negotiating from home on the phone and only go into a store to pick up the camera after a price is agreed upon.

Sourced from: http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-buy-a-digital-camera

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